The Ringinator Table Saw

I made a miniature table saw for use by jewelers, designers, and hobbyists.
It uses a user supplied corded electric drill as a power source. The drill plugs into an electronic speed controller that uses a knob to adjust the speed of the drill. This allows fine speed control, letting you cut woods, plastics, composites, and even metals.
It also has a liquid lubrication system that surrounds the blade with water/coolant that is constantly recirculated by a miniature pump. This keeps the blade cool and traps the cutting dust.
The blade slot has room for user made inserts, allowing the use of many different sizes of blades, from real thin 0.006″, up to 1/4″ or more. For slitting and slotting.


This is how I made it.

To save time and materials, I get the blanks waterjet cut from large aluminum sheets.

Waterjet blanks

I built a jig that lines up a bunch of bolts with the waterjet holes. Then I machine it.

Then take off all the sharp edges using a fancy little tool that can do both sides of the blank.

Do that a whole bunch of times and you end up with a nice shiny stack, ready for the next step.

Table saw stack

Now I flip them over and cut out the pocket for the vibration absorber.

After a few hours of that I end up with another shiny stack of parts.

Stack of shinies

Finished machining (I’m skipping a couple steps here that I did not take pictures of), and ready to be anodized and laser etched. They come out looking like this:

Table saw anodized Table saw anodized back

On to the base! Once again, I start off with a stack of waterjet blanks and machine them.

IMG_0621 IMG_0629 IMG_0671


The bases are then sandblasted and made to look pretty. Then all the remaining pieces are finished, like the reservoirs:

We can now move on to assembling the saws and kits.

IMG_0874IMG_0863 IMG_0864 IMG_0866

IMG_0878(Yes, it really is a life sized Vigo on the wall.)

IMG_0880What the reservoir looks like after a few hours of cutting aluminum.

IMG_0883 IMG_0884 IMG_0886Would you like one? The first batch is probably sold out by now, but more will be available on my website here:
Ringinator® Table Saw


Making a 360 degree hinge

Here is how I made a 360° hinge for my fishing, and metal pellet casting molds. I have been working on these for quite a while, and have went through many different versions. They are entirely cnc machined from billet aluminum. This is how I made the latest one. Now to mass produce these! Do you want one? Click here to pre-order one.
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I could not find any hinges that had no slop in them. The two mold halves have to line up and stay closed. If there is slop in the hinge then you don’t get a seal and it leaks. Also, it needs to be heavy duty, those handles are long and put a lot of leverage on the hinge. And not just that, but because we are casting metal, it needs to be fireproof.

Design the connector links in CAD, and then program the CAM paths.


Find a piece of steel, line it up, and clamp it down on the CNC.


Drill a buncha holes at exact spacing.

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Then use a tiny end mill to carve them out.



Now we move on to what really makes this thing work, the gears.


Without the gears to restrict the motion, you end up with a hinge that does this:


Temporary slotted axle mounted, so I can line them up.


Positioned and clamped in the vise, ready for a haircut.

IMG_0742A little off the top and you end up with this. Now to assemble it all!


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Do you want one? Click here to pre-order one!

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